The Heirloom in Your Kitchen:
A Guide to Caring for Handmade Cutting Boards
A handmade cutting board is more than a surface to chop onions; it is a dedicated piece of craftsmanship. Unlike plastic boards which are disposable, a solid wood board—whether Walnut, Maple, or Cherry—is designed to last for generations. However, because wood is an organic material that reacts to its environment, it requires a specific routine to stay healthy.
The philosophy of board care comes down to one concept: Moisture Management. You want to keep the wood from getting too wet (warping/rot) or too dry (cracking).
Here is the essential guide to maintaining the beauty and function of your wooden board.
1. The Daily Routine: Cleaning:
How you wash your board immediately after use dictates its lifespan.
The Golden Rules of Washing:
Hand Wash Only: Never, under any circumstances, put a wooden board in the dishwasher. The intense heat and prolonged water exposure will cause the wood to swell, crack, and potentially split the glue joints.
Use Mild Soap:
Warm water and a gentle dish soap are all you need.
Wash Both Sides: This is a pro tip. Even if you only used one side, wet the other side too. If one side is wet and expands while the other remains dry, the board will bow or “cup.” Wetting both sides keeps the tension even.
Dry Immediately: Do not let it air dry flat on the counter. Wipe it with a towel and stand it vertically on its edge. This allows air to circulate around the entire board.
2. Deep Cleaning and Deodorizing:
If you have been chopping garlic, onions, or raw meat, the board might need a reset.
The Lemon & Salt Method:
Sprinkle coarse Kosher salt generously over the surface of the board.
Cut a lemon in half.
Use the lemon half as a “scrubber” to scour the salt into the wood. The acidity cuts through grease and kills bacteria, while the salt acts as an abrasive to remove stuck-on food.
Let the mixture sit for 5-10 minutes, then scrape it off and rinse.
3. Maintenance: The “Spa Treatment” (Oiling)
Washing removes the natural oils from the wood. If the board looks “ashy,” feels dry, or if water no longer beads up on the surface, it is thirsty.
What to Use—
DO USE: Food-grade Mineral Oil. It is odorless, colorless, and most importantly, it does not spoil.
DO NOT USE: Olive oil, vegetable oil, or coconut oil (unless fractionated). These are organic fats that will eventually go rancid and make your board smell like spoiled food.
The Process:
Ensure the board is bone dry.
Pour a generous amount of mineral oil onto the board.
Spread it with a clean rag or paper towel. Don’t be shy—saturate every nook and cranny.
Let it soak for at least 3 hours (or overnight).
Wipe off the excess oil.
Upgrade Tip: Finish with a “Board Butter” (a mixture of beeswax and mineral oil). The wax creates a physical barrier on the surface that seals the oil in and keeps water out longer.
4. Troubleshooting Common Issues:
The Board feels “Fuzzy”
After the first few washes, a new board might feel rough. This is called “raised grain.”
The Fix: Take a piece of high-grit sandpaper (320 or 400 grit) and lightly sand the board by hand. Wipe away the dust and re-oil. It will return to being glass-smooth.
The Board is Warped (Wobbles on the counter)
This usually happens because one side absorbed more moisture than the other.
The Fix: Flip the board over so the “convex” side (the side bowing out like a hill) is facing up. The airflow often corrects the moisture imbalance over a few days.
Knife Scars:
Deep scratches can harbor bacteria.
The Fix: Wood is forgiving. You can sand the board down starting with 120 grit, moving to 220 grit, and then re-oiling. You essentially get a brand-new surface.
Enjoy your new handmade cutting board!!!